Custom Jewelry Design

By

Angela Kelsheimer

Thursday, January 9, 2014

Stephen Webster's Seven Deadly Sins

I'll be honest,,[I have to be in this article]...I look at A LOT of jewelry.  In fact, one could say that I am obsessed with it.  I study it, draw it, design it and fabricate it.  So when I see something that truly inspires my imagination by the fabulous design and the extraordinary materials used, how can I not possibly share it with you?

Today while perusing Pinterest, I found my newest passion...artist and jeweler, Stephen Webster and his artistic clarification of the 7 Deadly Sins.  The Seven Deadly Sins have been taught for centuries.  They first became popular as a didactic tool for the Roman Catholic Church in the early fourteenth century.  These sins, being explained in the Book of Proverbs 6: l6-l9 of the Holy Bible, are said to be the sins from where all other sins originate.  These "mortal" sins may lead to the eternal damnation of the sinner as well as those he pulls down with him through these acts. Throughout the years, these archetypical examples have become a cautionary cloth woven into the realms of religion, history, art, literature and even a few modern motion pictures for the modern student.  So of course, when I saw Webster's ironic interpretation of such weighty subject matter in a medium of art and expression that is so near and dear to my heart, I had to post these magically transporting designs.
PRIDE-  This ring is composed of anodized titanium, amethyst center stone, diamonds, pink and blue sapphires.
GREED- This ring is yellow gold and diamonds.
WRATH-  This is my personal favorite.  I love the intricate design of the hands and the malevolent color palette being offered to the wearer.   This ring is red gold, blood red garnet in the center, diamonds and rubies.
GLUTTONY-  This ring is white gold, orange citrine, rubies and white enameled teeth.
LUST-  This ring is white gold, Tanzanite in the center and diamonds.
SLOTH-  This ring is yellow gold with a center stone of aquamarine, rubies and diamonds.
ENVY-  This ring is white gold, black rhodium, huge peridot, black and white diamonds.
These rings range in price from £l5,000.00- £98,000.00. Perhaps the pocketbook is in as much danger as the soul?
The artist, Stephen Webster is a well established jeweler in England.  He is very popular with celebrities and the English Royal Family.  This particular collection that I shared with you today first debuted in June of 20l0. Webster was appointed Member of the Order of the British Empire [MBE] in 20l3 for his 37 years training and skills in the British jewelry industry.

Monday, January 6, 2014

For the New Year
                At forty-one years of age, I carried the sum total of my life’s experiences.  I tried to forget the past, to forgive the pain.  I vainly attempted to learn from my tears, from my poor life decisions and from my negative reactions to stressful situations and people.   As the reader may have guessed, I did not succeed.  My pride, guilt and martyrdom were too heavy.  The excessive weight that I bore, much like Atlas of old, day and night without reprieve began to hurt me physically.  My inner turmoil began to manifest itself in physical maladies that were beginning to affect the quality of my life.  My dreams haunted me and a healing, peaceful sleep often eluded me. 
On a vacation in the warm Florida sunshine, I found myself swimming in a pool alone.  There were no laughing children splashing or playing “Marco Polo,” no smell of coconut tanning oil in the air or bathing beauties sunning, and no music blaring in the distance sharing the next site of Casey Key’s never- ending beach party.  The pool’s water serenely mirrored the cloudless turquoise sky above me so that there was a sense of the infinite with no beginning and no end; just me or perhaps the occasional bird flying overhead fishing for his next meal.   I was not a fisherman, only a solitary voyager enjoying my weightlessness in the soothing water. The “soulful” quiet allowed me to think and feel without environmental static or interruption, a rare occurrence in my hectic existence and tired mind.   It was on that day that I prayed an honest and earnest prayer for guidance and direction.  I admitted that I needed help and that I could not do it on my own.  The response I was given was remarkably swift and direct.  I did not have to wait for a mystical sign for a third party to interpret.   I did not have to roam the desert of my own existence for forty more years. The unknown word that God gave me in response was “Shalom.” The word was spoken softly but undeniably over and over in my ears gently as the ocean breezes caressed me.  I later discovered that this is a Hebrew word that means the “Peace of God,” which I interpreted as the supreme peace, the peace of all peace.  However at that moment, I instinctively knew that the light and mercy of God had found me finally willing to listen.  I knew that the Holy Spirit would always be by my side as my intercessor and ally.  As I floated in the warm water, I imagined myself a baby in the womb.  I was protected and peaceful.  There was no future or past, only resting in the blessed assurance of the healing warmth of my creator’s love.
                  Even though I gave myself to the light, what I call the universal greater good, it does not mean that I never lose my way in darkness or face unfair criticisms.   It does not mean that I am immune from becoming frustrated or angry by the fellow travelers that I encounter along my life’s path.  Perhaps the most difficult lesson is that the enemy of this peace can often come in the person of those that are supposed to love unconditionally.  I was raised in an environment that emphasized religion and judgment.  As an adult, I see that this education was sadly incomplete in terms of love and forgiveness.  The wise traveler does not stumble into these holes mired in mindless ritual and hypocrisy, but rather mushes forward with the truth of his or her faith to light the path.  This light is the unending and uncompromising love of our Creator.  One must also beware that the overwhelming unhappiness of others is often a powerful vortex that may try to extinguish our Father’s guiding light and healing love from the innocent pedestrian that is unknowingly being pulled under by its intense negative energy.   This kind of unhappiness is self-centered and self absorbed.  It does not seek an answer to the problem but would rather roll around in the muck and gloom bemoaning his or her bad circumstance.  Do not travel with such companions.  These people may not realize how dangerous they are to your positive existence.  These sad individuals want someone to stay with them in their hole, feeling that the only way they may be truly understood or helped, is to be miserable with them.  “Misery loves company,” is not just a saying.  Only through prayer and guidance can these weary pilgrims be saved.  Encourage those that seek to drain your energy, but do not give your peace away.  This advice is not meant to be judgmental, but to protect the reader from unnecessary pain and disappointment.   When I am blind-sided by these unwarranted attacks, I repeatedly say the healing word that was given to me and that I now share with you, “Shalom.”
 Many times in life, people get bogged down in verbiage.   We love labels in this country.  What are you?   Identify yourself.  Are you a Democrat, a Republican?   Are you Christian, Jew, Muslim, Buddhist, Pagan or Atheist?   I certainly do not claim to be a religious theologian.  I do, however, know what I have experienced in my own life.  I do know that there is an omnipotent force in our universe that cares for each of us.  This force seeks to create order from chaos and wants each child to thrive in their respective environments. Healing energy is available to each of us.  We are all chosen for abundance.  We are limited only by our own rules of order and pride.  The expense of this peace is not cost prohibitive, just a simple and honest request.  So right now, at this blessed present moment, promise to be an agent of light and love in your own life and those lives around you.  The New Year is a time of physical renewal and resolutions to be healthier and to take better care of our physical beings.  Why not then be more mentally and spiritually healthy?   Promise to give your faith feet and walk in light and love.

I know that it helps, because it helped me.  When I become overwhelmed at times, I take a moment to center myself again, pray and regain my Shalom.  I never want to go back to that anxious, reactive person that I used to be.  I am free.

Thursday, December 12, 2013


Middle Man Blues
*Add your favorite blues riff*


Is dis da Winter of My Discontent?
I can't seem to keep no money,
Can hardly pay da rent.
My beans burn in da kitchen.
Aint got no propane for da grill.
Can't afford to buy da refined gas,
Gotta push da car up da hill.
Big Daddy's on da chemo.
Obama's knockin' at da door.
Somehow I'm still in da five percent,
How dis bitch gonna pay any more?
Aint got no presents.
Aint got no tree.
Can't shake these blues
That are hangin' on me.
I got me some puppies.
They aint got no bones.
If we don't pay da banker man...
They aint gonna have no home.
We got a Sugar Daddy up North
Says he's gonna make da deals.
He say it be any day, for many days...
"Girl you sittin' on extra,
You aint gonna miss no meals."
Middle man is disappearin'
Aint no government check for me.
They say I got too much to qualify,
But how can dat be?
If no good deed goes unpunished,
But every dog has its day.
Things has gots to do some changin'
That's all I'm gonna say.

Wednesday, December 11, 2013



I saw a bright, majestic, red bird,
 A cardinal that landed on my tree.
It watched me through my window,
Staring eye to eye, directly at me.
It seemed to know a secret,
One that I had not been told.
Perhaps the mysteries of the ages
In his wings he did enfold.
The cold was all around him,
Ice glittered, snow danced.
Though this deserted aviator held tightly to his perch,
Alone on that solitary branch.
Sky above him,
Earth below...
Where would he journey next?
Neither one of us seemed to know.
He stayed for only one more moment,
This brief juncture in time.
We shared an inquisitive glance.
We shared an effortless rhyme.
Merry Christmas. In memory of my grandmother, Katherine Burris.

Wednesday, October 2, 2013



More Choices

Everyone likes to have choices, especially when it comes to your jewelry dollar.  Today, while having my second cup of coffee, I came up with an idea that I would like to share with you for FREE.  Many of my readers know that I am an estate jeweler as well as a rabid bead-er.  I am obsessed with beautiful estate and antique finds with brooches being at the top of my list.  I have attempted to utilize my brooch collection in a number of ways with beads, but have often been frustrated by how the pin attaches to the beads; often way too many beads and not enough pin.  I have also purchased adapters in the past to make my brooches into pendants, but often times the brooch pins are soldered on in a way that makes them a little top heavy or what I like to call "tippy." [Good to be tippy, not to wear tippy] Neither of these are good looks.  So today, I thought why couldn't a person put on two lobster claw clasps or closures of choice?  I originally saw this done in a watch line that had beaded bracelets and then interchangeable watches.  I have never seen this done with larger scale beaded items.  I have seen magnetic closures that are interchangeable, but can't be used on estate jewelry.  As with most jewelry, many ideas have been implemented in the past.  Just because I haven't seen it yet, doesn't mean it doesn't exist.  However, I think that this idea has a lot of fabulous implications in my own design line, as well as ways of stretching the almighty jewelry dollar.  Please take a moment to check this out.
This is a lovely strand of beads that I strung this morning.  It is a basically neutral, Autumn friendly color palette that could be worn with many fashion choices.
These are the two lobster claw clasps I chose.  Here you can see that when used alone, they perform the same function as a closure.
Here I have added just a 2" chain to give me a little extra length if I need it.  Many times, these will be strung or soldered on a necklace for convenience.  Now on many noble metal chains there will be "o" rings soldered at sixteen, eighteen, and twenty inches.  This is a great feature if you have bought your chain or necklace that way.  However, if you have a bench jeweler solder on "o" rings, you will pay a significant amount of moolah.  I don't think this is a great value for a casual, once-in-a-while beaded necklace.  The other idea here, is that any costume chain may be used to create this length.  A client could keep one seven inch rolo chain [bracelet length] in several metal choices in his or her jewelry box, to increase the size of a necklace at any given time.

In this photo, I have added a brooch.  Notice that the lobster claws secure to both sides of the brooch pin keeping it centered.  This also works when the brooch is set as a pendant in the middle of the wearer's neck.

Snazzy, focal addition to these lovely beads. Here are some other choices:
 How about this one?
This is a lot of variety for one simple necklace.  Think about this concept applied to a beautiful pearl strand. [No longer Granny's pearl necklace.]  Please contact me if you have any beaded necklaces you would like changed.  Happy Beading.

Friday, August 2, 2013

Lisa Hoffman Beauty

With all the jewelry available to purchase, I very seldom encourage my readers to buy another designer...and certainly not on my page.  However, I would like to go on record as saying this product is one of the most exciting I have seen in a long time.  The item shown is basically a fabulous little charm/locket that comes in your choice of several costume metals and has a decent sized universal bail which can then move the charm for a multitude of wearing options. Included with one's purchase is one or two little jars of perfumed beads.   Put the beads in the charm, and voila, you carry the most amazing scent with you.
The key to the success of this item is the fabulous scents.  I made my purchase from HSN for around $60.  The scents that were included in my selection: French Clary Sage and Madagascar Orchid. Each of these scents are clean, unique, and enchanting!  There are many advantages to these "jewelry with benefits" pieces!  First of all, you constantly carry the most amazing and inviting scents with you that do not overwhelm the surrounding public! Secondly, there is no damage to clothing or sensitive jewelry such as turquoise, coral, pearls, or opals  from the over spray.  Finally, it is so easy to control how much scent you wear by controlling the number of scented beads you put in your charm.  There are other scents available, some of the are: Japanese Agarwood, Tunisian Neroli, and Tuscan Fig.  I know I can wait to try the others!  There are also several bracelet colors, pendants, and earrings available.  I am seriously thinking about buying more of the charms, and I never do that!  I think this is a WONDERFUL gift to give a bride/bridesmaids, a new mom, a young adult, or anyone of any age that wants to feel fabulous!
Designer Lisa Hoffman, wife of Academy Award Winning actor, Dustin Hoffman, shines in this collection.  She has created a product that is not only beautiful, but smart.  There are so many fragrance options as well as wearing options that make this a real winner.  I wouldn't be a designer if I did not have at least one suggestion...so here it is:  please make a charm that is available in sterling silver or 14K gold for your jewelry girls that prefer the fine metals.  I highly encourage my readers and jewelry clients to try this excellent product.  

Tuesday, July 16, 2013

Designing Women...Jewelry, That Is!

Over the years, many customers have asked me from where I get my inspirations.  In regard to my color palettes, I use the Gulf of Mexico and the deserts of the Southwest.  I am also a lover of bright "Fiesta" colors.  My favorite metal is definitely silver.  My favorite gemstones are turquoise, Amazonite,  pearls, emeralds, moonstones, rutilated quartz, citrine, and diamonds.  As I continue to live on this planet, I am constantly inspired by other women.  We are "steel magnolias."  Most women I know are in constant motion from one job or responsibility to the next.  Not only do we work hard, most of us put a significant amount of effort and resources into looking good while we do it!  To that end, I thought I would list some of my favorite female designers.  If you don't know some or any of these designers, do yourself a favor and check them out.  Their art work is as unique and lovely as each one of these multifaceted women.

Elaina K. Llewellyn
Favorite Up and Coming Designer
Elaina Katherine Llewellyn is 15 years old, and pretty good at most things she has tried in her young life. However, one thing she excels in is art and specifically sculpting.  She has grown up in the jewelry business! It is only natural that she would sculpt her highly individualized and humorous creatures into wonderful, one-of-a-kind wearable creations.  Am I biased about her talent?  You betcha!  I am her mom!  Do I want her in my business?  You better believe it!  Nepotism aside,  I know what sells in the retail jewelry business, and I know Elaina has talent!  Here are some of her pieces:

  

10. LOREE RODKIN
 

Loree is THE rock and roll jeweler!  She has a unique vision that incorporates several design styles and art periods.  She has has ornate crosses mounted in leather, she has rings that are worn on several fingers at the same time, which make the stones seem to float on the fingers, and she layers chains and fobs that glide effortlessly on the neck.  This much ease requires a great deal of effort and detail in design.  She is also an innovator because she created this now popular look that other designers, me included, imitate!  She has a Medieval, Gothic "vibe" to her pieces that make her a favorite to iconic personalities such as Cher and Madonna..  Loree made a huge score by being chosen by Michele Obama to accessorize one of her inaugural ensembles.  For this choice assignment, Loree's work will be added to the permanent collection at the Smithsonian!  I am a huge fan of her crosses.  They are intricate, complex, and beautiful, just like Loree Rodkin.
An example of Ms. Rodkin's floating ring
 
Maltese cross mounted on large leather cuff

9. JOAN RIVERS

Can we talk? ( One of the catch phrases of my youth that Joan made famous.)  If we are going to talk, then let's talk about a lady who has taken the fashion industry by storm!  Her insightful jabs and pithy puns have changed the fashion industry one fashion disaster or diva at a time!  Not only has she ruled the red carpet, or been the leader of the "Joan Rangers" on  Entertainment TV's Fashion Police, she has headed a design team for QVC which specializes in beautiful fashion jewelry, clothing, and accessories since 1990.  Many people love Joan's limited edition brooches which are spectacular.  From filling in a thinning hairline, to selling a well-fitted jacket, Joan is there.  Ms. Rivers turned 80 this year, with no signs of slowing down!  You are a petite dynamo Ms. Joan.  You are also a wonderful role model to women every where!  You lead women by example in regard to personal strength and humor and style.  You are one of the most fearless comediennes I have ever heard!  Thanks for all you do!
 
An example of Joan's limited edition brooches

8.  SONIA BITTON

A native of France, Sonia works in her jewelry manufacturing facility in New York City.  She has wonderfully interesting designs that bond the world's of jewelry art and jewelry engineering.  Sonia Bitton  is a smart jewelry designer.  Not only does she created incredibly detailed and seamlessly executed jewelry, she designs pieces that can be worn in different ways. Would you like a ring that may be turned into a pendant? How about a ring whose shank can expand up to one half a size greater, so it will always be comfortable to the wearer?  Since seeing Sonia's work, I am challenged as a designer to think outside the box!  What more can I do with this piece?  How much variety will the customer receive?  What a lovely innovator.
One of her expandable rings.  Lovely!

7. JOAN BOYCE
 
Joan Boyce is a great example of everything I hopefully design in my No Shrinking Violets line.  Joan is a classic.  If you like her work now, it will still be important and hold its value years from now!  Joan also creates jewelry that is meant to be seen!  If you want to be beautiful background scenery, Joan is not the designer for you.  Step into the spotlight.  Take your place center stage!  Joan has two brick and mortar locations:  Aspen, Colorado and West Hampton Beach, New York.  She also has a fashion jewelry line and clothing and accessories line on HSN.  Love you Joanie.  You make the world more beautiful, one sparkle at at a time!

Joan's beautiful gem paved eggs!

6.  BARBARA BIXBY
 
At 16 years of age, Barbara studied at FIT, The Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City, NY. She began to study sculpture which eventually led to her passion with jewelry design.  She has many influences on her work from her travels through Europe and Asia.  Many of her pieces have several "spiritual" themes as Barbara continues her journey of personal truth and spirituality.  She is also heavily influenced by the natural world.  She makes high end couture pieces but has also reached a broader audience with her sterling silver/ gold line on QVC.  There is a peace and joy present in everything Ms. Bixby creates.


Her famous grasshopper sketch

5. CAROL BRODIE

I love Carol Brodie's personal, signature style.  Let's be honest, she is "Sex in the City" beautiful!  Beauty aside, she is also a very established personal stylist and jewelry designer.  She gained a majority of her experience from working with the iconic Mr. Harry Winston.  One of her jobs there was styling celebrity clients for red carpet, uber glamorous events.  One of her continuing passions is antique and vintage jewelry. She loves that one-of-a-kind feeling that comes from estate finds.  Her fabulous personal style and her love of antiquities is shown through her fine jewelry and accessory line on HSN.  When asked about jewelers that excite her, she named designers such as:  Cartier, Van Cleef and Arpels, and Verdura to name just a few. To me, Carol is one of those "wicked" fun girlfriends that always has time for style advice...or a Cosmo!
Year of the Snake, Anyone?

4. JUDITH RIPKA
Judith Ripka grew up in New York City.  Her education included the Parson's School of Design.  Her first job in the jewelry industry was under Dawn Mello who later became the fashion director at Bergdorf Goodman's and Gucci.  In 1977, Judith decided to break out on her own and start an 18K collection with rare gemstones.  This 36 years of experience in collection building and numerous professional accolades are evident in every piece of jewelry she designs.  Judith is class and elegance from her jeweled end caps to her milgrained edges.  She currently has an amazing biographical coffee table book, Judith Ripka. She has also created a very successful sterling silver line for QVC.
Ripkanistas love bracelets!

3.  HEIDI DAUS

Miss Heidi graduated college from Tobe Coburn School of Fashion in New York City.  She is well know from her jewelry "trunk show" collections which have been sold from well known retailers such as:  Harvey Nichols, Bloomingdales, and Harrods.  For the past several years, she has sold a high end costume and semi-precious line on HSN.  Heidi has many hobbies including gardening, dogs, travel, and fashion.  These influences may be seen in all of her work which is as colorful and friendly as she is.  One of her iconic brooches, The Dragonfly, is showcased in Madeleine Albright's book, Read My Pins: Stories from a Diplomat's Jewel Box.  On a personal note, I have collected Heidi Daus for ten years.  I love the "statement" quality of her work, and how happy it makes me to wear such lovely items.  Thanks Miss H.
 My "Big Pretty"


2.  IRIS APFEL

Iris Apfel is a work of art!  That point aside, she was educated in art history at New York University and attended art school at the University of Wisconsin in a time when many women in this country never saw the ninth grade!  At 92 years young, Apfel has an amazing resume which includes: Women's Wear Daily, interior designer for Elinor Johnson, and she has worked on design restoration projects for nine presidents at the White House (Truman, Eisenhower, Kennedy, Johnson, Nixon, Carter, Reagan, and Clinton).  She and her husband, Carl Apfel, launched Old World Weavers in 1950 and stayed in business through their retirement in 1992!  Iris's personal style has been the subject of several museum exhibitions including at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City.  She was also the subject of a fabulous pictorial book called, Rare Bird of Fashion:  The Irreverent Iris Apfel.  She is still busy with a clothing and accessory line on HSN. Mrs. Apfel is such an example of professionalism and dignity.  Her personal style is playful and welcoming. The more I learn about her, the more enchanted I am.   Please enjoy some of the "Rare Bird" pictures I could find:
 




1.  ANGELA KELSHEIMER

No, really!  Don't you have to be your own favorite designer?  I am in no way in this group of designers...yet.  Someday though, you stay tuned:)
No Shrinking Violets...for sure!
Zero calorie donuts:)