Custom Jewelry Design

By

Angela Kelsheimer

Tuesday, July 16, 2013

Designing Women...Jewelry, That Is!

Over the years, many customers have asked me from where I get my inspirations.  In regard to my color palettes, I use the Gulf of Mexico and the deserts of the Southwest.  I am also a lover of bright "Fiesta" colors.  My favorite metal is definitely silver.  My favorite gemstones are turquoise, Amazonite,  pearls, emeralds, moonstones, rutilated quartz, citrine, and diamonds.  As I continue to live on this planet, I am constantly inspired by other women.  We are "steel magnolias."  Most women I know are in constant motion from one job or responsibility to the next.  Not only do we work hard, most of us put a significant amount of effort and resources into looking good while we do it!  To that end, I thought I would list some of my favorite female designers.  If you don't know some or any of these designers, do yourself a favor and check them out.  Their art work is as unique and lovely as each one of these multifaceted women.

Elaina K. Llewellyn
Favorite Up and Coming Designer
Elaina Katherine Llewellyn is 15 years old, and pretty good at most things she has tried in her young life. However, one thing she excels in is art and specifically sculpting.  She has grown up in the jewelry business! It is only natural that she would sculpt her highly individualized and humorous creatures into wonderful, one-of-a-kind wearable creations.  Am I biased about her talent?  You betcha!  I am her mom!  Do I want her in my business?  You better believe it!  Nepotism aside,  I know what sells in the retail jewelry business, and I know Elaina has talent!  Here are some of her pieces:

  

10. LOREE RODKIN
 

Loree is THE rock and roll jeweler!  She has a unique vision that incorporates several design styles and art periods.  She has has ornate crosses mounted in leather, she has rings that are worn on several fingers at the same time, which make the stones seem to float on the fingers, and she layers chains and fobs that glide effortlessly on the neck.  This much ease requires a great deal of effort and detail in design.  She is also an innovator because she created this now popular look that other designers, me included, imitate!  She has a Medieval, Gothic "vibe" to her pieces that make her a favorite to iconic personalities such as Cher and Madonna..  Loree made a huge score by being chosen by Michele Obama to accessorize one of her inaugural ensembles.  For this choice assignment, Loree's work will be added to the permanent collection at the Smithsonian!  I am a huge fan of her crosses.  They are intricate, complex, and beautiful, just like Loree Rodkin.
An example of Ms. Rodkin's floating ring
 
Maltese cross mounted on large leather cuff

9. JOAN RIVERS

Can we talk? ( One of the catch phrases of my youth that Joan made famous.)  If we are going to talk, then let's talk about a lady who has taken the fashion industry by storm!  Her insightful jabs and pithy puns have changed the fashion industry one fashion disaster or diva at a time!  Not only has she ruled the red carpet, or been the leader of the "Joan Rangers" on  Entertainment TV's Fashion Police, she has headed a design team for QVC which specializes in beautiful fashion jewelry, clothing, and accessories since 1990.  Many people love Joan's limited edition brooches which are spectacular.  From filling in a thinning hairline, to selling a well-fitted jacket, Joan is there.  Ms. Rivers turned 80 this year, with no signs of slowing down!  You are a petite dynamo Ms. Joan.  You are also a wonderful role model to women every where!  You lead women by example in regard to personal strength and humor and style.  You are one of the most fearless comediennes I have ever heard!  Thanks for all you do!
 
An example of Joan's limited edition brooches

8.  SONIA BITTON

A native of France, Sonia works in her jewelry manufacturing facility in New York City.  She has wonderfully interesting designs that bond the world's of jewelry art and jewelry engineering.  Sonia Bitton  is a smart jewelry designer.  Not only does she created incredibly detailed and seamlessly executed jewelry, she designs pieces that can be worn in different ways. Would you like a ring that may be turned into a pendant? How about a ring whose shank can expand up to one half a size greater, so it will always be comfortable to the wearer?  Since seeing Sonia's work, I am challenged as a designer to think outside the box!  What more can I do with this piece?  How much variety will the customer receive?  What a lovely innovator.
One of her expandable rings.  Lovely!

7. JOAN BOYCE
 
Joan Boyce is a great example of everything I hopefully design in my No Shrinking Violets line.  Joan is a classic.  If you like her work now, it will still be important and hold its value years from now!  Joan also creates jewelry that is meant to be seen!  If you want to be beautiful background scenery, Joan is not the designer for you.  Step into the spotlight.  Take your place center stage!  Joan has two brick and mortar locations:  Aspen, Colorado and West Hampton Beach, New York.  She also has a fashion jewelry line and clothing and accessories line on HSN.  Love you Joanie.  You make the world more beautiful, one sparkle at at a time!

Joan's beautiful gem paved eggs!

6.  BARBARA BIXBY
 
At 16 years of age, Barbara studied at FIT, The Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City, NY. She began to study sculpture which eventually led to her passion with jewelry design.  She has many influences on her work from her travels through Europe and Asia.  Many of her pieces have several "spiritual" themes as Barbara continues her journey of personal truth and spirituality.  She is also heavily influenced by the natural world.  She makes high end couture pieces but has also reached a broader audience with her sterling silver/ gold line on QVC.  There is a peace and joy present in everything Ms. Bixby creates.


Her famous grasshopper sketch

5. CAROL BRODIE

I love Carol Brodie's personal, signature style.  Let's be honest, she is "Sex in the City" beautiful!  Beauty aside, she is also a very established personal stylist and jewelry designer.  She gained a majority of her experience from working with the iconic Mr. Harry Winston.  One of her jobs there was styling celebrity clients for red carpet, uber glamorous events.  One of her continuing passions is antique and vintage jewelry. She loves that one-of-a-kind feeling that comes from estate finds.  Her fabulous personal style and her love of antiquities is shown through her fine jewelry and accessory line on HSN.  When asked about jewelers that excite her, she named designers such as:  Cartier, Van Cleef and Arpels, and Verdura to name just a few. To me, Carol is one of those "wicked" fun girlfriends that always has time for style advice...or a Cosmo!
Year of the Snake, Anyone?

4. JUDITH RIPKA
Judith Ripka grew up in New York City.  Her education included the Parson's School of Design.  Her first job in the jewelry industry was under Dawn Mello who later became the fashion director at Bergdorf Goodman's and Gucci.  In 1977, Judith decided to break out on her own and start an 18K collection with rare gemstones.  This 36 years of experience in collection building and numerous professional accolades are evident in every piece of jewelry she designs.  Judith is class and elegance from her jeweled end caps to her milgrained edges.  She currently has an amazing biographical coffee table book, Judith Ripka. She has also created a very successful sterling silver line for QVC.
Ripkanistas love bracelets!

3.  HEIDI DAUS

Miss Heidi graduated college from Tobe Coburn School of Fashion in New York City.  She is well know from her jewelry "trunk show" collections which have been sold from well known retailers such as:  Harvey Nichols, Bloomingdales, and Harrods.  For the past several years, she has sold a high end costume and semi-precious line on HSN.  Heidi has many hobbies including gardening, dogs, travel, and fashion.  These influences may be seen in all of her work which is as colorful and friendly as she is.  One of her iconic brooches, The Dragonfly, is showcased in Madeleine Albright's book, Read My Pins: Stories from a Diplomat's Jewel Box.  On a personal note, I have collected Heidi Daus for ten years.  I love the "statement" quality of her work, and how happy it makes me to wear such lovely items.  Thanks Miss H.
 My "Big Pretty"


2.  IRIS APFEL

Iris Apfel is a work of art!  That point aside, she was educated in art history at New York University and attended art school at the University of Wisconsin in a time when many women in this country never saw the ninth grade!  At 92 years young, Apfel has an amazing resume which includes: Women's Wear Daily, interior designer for Elinor Johnson, and she has worked on design restoration projects for nine presidents at the White House (Truman, Eisenhower, Kennedy, Johnson, Nixon, Carter, Reagan, and Clinton).  She and her husband, Carl Apfel, launched Old World Weavers in 1950 and stayed in business through their retirement in 1992!  Iris's personal style has been the subject of several museum exhibitions including at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City.  She was also the subject of a fabulous pictorial book called, Rare Bird of Fashion:  The Irreverent Iris Apfel.  She is still busy with a clothing and accessory line on HSN. Mrs. Apfel is such an example of professionalism and dignity.  Her personal style is playful and welcoming. The more I learn about her, the more enchanted I am.   Please enjoy some of the "Rare Bird" pictures I could find:
 




1.  ANGELA KELSHEIMER

No, really!  Don't you have to be your own favorite designer?  I am in no way in this group of designers...yet.  Someday though, you stay tuned:)
No Shrinking Violets...for sure!
Zero calorie donuts:)